The short answer, function by function
| Function | When | What to wear | Colours |
|---|---|---|---|
| Haldi | Morning | A cotton kurta and pyjama or trousers you do not mind staining | Yellow, white, cream |
| Mehendi | Afternoon | A linen kurta with a Nehru jacket, a linen shirt and trousers, or a light linen suit | Green, sage, pastels, ivory |
| Sangeet | Evening | A bandhgala, Jodhpuri, velvet jacket or Indo-western | Jewel tones, black, midnight blue |
| Cocktail | Evening | A dark suit, dinner jacket or bandhgala. See cocktail attire | Dark and rich |
| Wedding | Evening or night | An achkan or sherwani for the family; a bandhgala or Jodhpuri for guests | Ivory, gold, pastels, deep colours |
| Reception | Evening | A tuxedo, bandhgala or suit. See the reception guide | Black, midnight blue, jewel tones |
Haldi
It is the messiest function. Turmeric paste goes everywhere, and it stains. Wear a white, cream or yellow cotton kurta with pyjamas or straight trousers, and leather sandals or kolhapuris you can rinse. Skip silk, skip anything you love, and skip the jacket.
Mehendi
Daytime, relaxed and colourful, and often outdoors. Linen is the best cloth for it. A linen kurta with a linen Nehru jacket looks finished without being hot. A linen shirt and trousers, or a light cotton-linen suit without a tie, work for a more Western crowd. Greens and pastels are traditional; a floral print is fine at mehendi if it is anywhere.
Sangeet
The sangeet is an evening of performances and dancing, so the outfit has to move. A bandhgala or a Jodhpuri with an open neck looks sharp and lets you breathe. A velvet jacket with black trousers is right for winter sangeets in Delhi and Gurugram. Before you commit, raise both arms above your head in the fitting: if the whole jacket rises, it will ride up all night.
For brothers, close friends and the groom's side
If you are dancing a set piece, coordinate with the group, but let each person's cut be his own. Families often choose one colour for the groom's side at the sangeet; a matching colour in different styles (bandhgala, Nehru jacket over kurta, Jodhpuri) looks better in photographs than identical outfits. Order early: group orders take longer to fit.
For the groom
Save the heaviest outfit for the wedding and the sharpest for the reception. The mehendi and haldi are the places to be comfortable. Our groom's wardrobe guide goes function by function.
Colours to think twice about
- Black: many North Indian families avoid it at auspicious daytime ceremonies. At a sangeet or cocktail it is usually fine.
- All white: traditionally linked with mourning in some communities. Off-white and ivory are safer.
- Red: often kept for the couple.
Customs vary widely by family and region. If the invitation gives a colour, follow it; if not, ask.
Planning a wedding wardrobe
A three-day wedding needs three to five looks. Build them around two tailored pieces you will wear again, such as a bandhgala and a Nehru jacket, and change the kurtas and shirts underneath. Allow four weeks for anything made to measure, and six in the October to February season. Book a home appointment in Gurugram or Delhi.
Questions, answered
Yellow, white, cream or pale pastels, in cotton. Wear something you are happy to stain; turmeric does not always wash out.
A linen or cotton kurta with a Nehru jacket, a linen shirt and trousers, or a light linen suit. Green, sage, pastel and ivory all work.
A bandhgala, a Jodhpuri, a velvet jacket or an Indo-western. Choose something you can dance in, and check that the jacket lets you raise your arms.
Yes, especially a velvet or jewel-toned one. A plain grey office suit is too quiet for a sangeet.
Many families avoid black and all-white at auspicious ceremonies, and red is often kept for the couple. When in doubt, ask the family.
