The Vesper black shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo, front full-length view
The Vesper black shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo, jacket-open fit view
The Vesper black shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo shown in movement
The Vesper black shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo, rear fit view
The Vesper black shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo, full-length side profile
The Vesper black shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo, seated fit view
The Vesper black shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo, closed three-quarter view
The Vesper black fine-wool tuxedo, satin shawl collar detail
The Vesper black fine-wool tuxedo, sleeve cuff detail
The Vesper black fine-wool tuxedo, trouser waistband detail
The Vesper black fine-wool tuxedo, satin trouser stripe and straight leg line
The Vesper black fine-wool tuxedo, rear jacket construction detail
The Vesper black fine-wool tuxedo styled for an evening gala
The Vesper midnight-blue shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo, front full-length view
The Vesper midnight-blue shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo, jacket-open fit view
The Vesper midnight-blue shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo shown in movement
The Vesper midnight-blue shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo, rear fit view
The Vesper midnight-blue shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo, full-length side profile
The Vesper midnight-blue shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo, seated fit view
The Vesper midnight-blue shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo, closed three-quarter view
The Vesper midnight-blue fine-wool tuxedo, satin shawl collar detail
The Vesper midnight-blue fine-wool tuxedo, sleeve cuff detail
The Vesper midnight-blue fine-wool tuxedo, trouser waistband detail
The Vesper midnight-blue fine-wool tuxedo, satin trouser stripe and straight leg line
The Vesper midnight-blue fine-wool tuxedo, rear jacket construction detail
The Vesper midnight-blue fine-wool tuxedo styled for an evening reception
Shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedoChapter 38

The Vesper

One button, one collar, one decision already made.

A natural shoulder and a slim line through the chest and waist, half-canvassed so it drapes rather than holds. Straight mid-rise trousers, flat front, satin stripe.

Rs. 37,500 Made to measure · Gurugram
Colour Black
Book a private appointment → Ask about this piece
  • No deposit to book
  • Fitted at your home or office
  • Delivered in 14 days
  • Wear it forBlack tie, Gala, Evening wedding, Reception, New Year and formal parties
  • MeasuredAt your home or office
  • FittingsOne, at day eight
  • Delivered14 days from the visit
Chapter
38 / 36
Garment
Shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo
Cut by
The bench, Gurugram
Programme
AW26
Black tie—Gala—Evening wedding—Reception—New Year and formal parties—Cut in Gurugram—Eighteen measurements—14 days—Black tie—Gala—Evening wedding—Reception—New Year and formal parties—Cut in Gurugram—Eighteen measurements—14 days—
In short

The Vesper is SALVE's made-to-measure single-breasted tuxedo in fine wool, with a satin shawl collar, a one-button closure and satin-striped trousers, in black or midnight blue. Cut for black tie, galas and evening weddings.

01

What the Vesper is

A single-breasted black-tie tuxedo cut in fine wool, with a slim, tailored chest and waist. A continuous satin shawl collar, a satin-covered one-button closure and jetted pockets give the jacket its clean evening line, while half-canvas construction supports a natural drape.

The matching straight, mid-rise trousers have a flat front, side adjusters and a narrow satin side stripe. Cut for formal receptions, galas and evening weddings.

Offered in two cloths: black, and midnight blue, the older of the two conventions and the one that reads blacker than black under evening light.

  • Fine wool
  • Single-breasted one-button dinner jacket
  • Satin shawl collar and covered button
  • Natural shoulder
  • Jetted pockets
  • Half-canvas construction
  • Straight mid-rise flat-front trousers
  • Side adjusters and satin side stripe
Garment
Shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo
Wear it for
Black tie, Gala, Evening wedding, Reception, New Year and formal parties
Made
To measure, in Gurugram
Measured
At your home or office
Fittings
One, at day eight
Delivered
14 days from the visit
Price
Rs. 37,500
02

Where to wear it

The Vesper is cut for these occasions. Each one links to everything else we make for it.

Black tie See the edit →Gala See the edit →Evening wedding OccasionReception See the edit →New Year and formal parties Occasion
03

The details

  • Single-breasted, one-button dinner jacket.
  • Continuous satin shawl collar and satin-covered button.
  • Natural shoulder.
  • Jetted pockets, no flaps.
  • Half-canvas construction.
  • Straight mid-rise flat-front trousers with a narrow satin side stripe.
  • Two cloths: black, and midnight blue.
04

The best way to wear it

Wear it with
  • With Soho, the evening shirt this was cut for.
  • With a cummerbund, which a single-breasted jacket does want.
  • Black patent or a plain polished oxford. Nothing with a buckle.
Getting the proportions right
  • A shawl collar is the softer, older evening line. It flatters a broader chest more than a peak lapel does.
  • Single-breasted means the waist shows, so wear a cummerbund and keep the shirt plain.
  • Midnight blue reads blacker than black under artificial light, which is why it exists.
  • One satin note is enough. Small studs, no pocket square competing with the collar.
05

Who it suits, and what else to consider

Choose the Vesper for the softer, classic black-tie line, and wear it with a cummerbund. The Nocturne is the double-breasted answer to the same invitation: stricter, worn closed, and no waist covering needed.

The Nocturne black double-breasted fine-wool tuxedo, front full-length view
The Nocturne from Rs. 37,500
Double-breasted fine-wool tuxedo
The Soho On request
Evening shirt with hidden placket
After Dark On request
Single-breasted peak-lapel tuxedo
06

Cut by one pair of hands, twice.

Inside the 14 days
Days 1–3
Pattern drafted and cut to your eighteen measurements.
Days 4–6
Basted by hand, so the fitting can still change anything.
Day 8
The fitting, at your table. Marked and taken away.
Days 9–14
Finished, pressed and delivered.
07

Specification

  • Shoulder — Soft, unpadded unless you ask
  • Construction — Half canvas, hand-basted for the fitting
  • Deposit — 50% at order, balance on delivery
08

Everything else, in detail

Where
We come to you, in Gurugram
Home, office or club, anywhere inside Gurugram. There is no shop to visit and no showroom appointment to keep.
Fit
Eighteen measurements, taken once
The pattern is kept on file. A second commission needs no second visit, which is how most clients order after the first one.
Cloth
Two hundred cloths, six books
Mills in Biella, Huddersfield and Kishangarh. The cutter brings the books to your table so you see the cloth in your own light.
09

Questions, answered

Shawl collar or peak lapel?

A shawl collar is the softer, older evening line and tends to flatter a broader chest. A peak lapel is sharper and more upright. Both are correct for black tie; it is a question of your shoulders and your taste.

Black or midnight blue?

Midnight blue is the older convention and reads blacker than black under artificial light, which is where a tuxedo spends its life. Black is the safer, stricter choice. Both are correct.

Do I need a cummerbund?

With this one, yes. A single-breasted dinner jacket leaves the waist showing, and black tie asks for it to be covered. The Nocturne, being double-breasted, does not need one.

How is this different from the Nocturne?

The Vesper is single-breasted with a shawl collar. The Nocturne is double-breasted with a peak lapel: stricter, worn closed all evening, and no waist covering needed.

Is a tuxedo worth it if I wear black tie once a year?

If you wear it three times it has already cost less per evening than hiring. If you wear it once, hire.

10

What you are risking: an hour.

No deposit to book the visit.
You see it basted before it is finished.
If we cut it wrong, we remake it at our cost.
If it is the wrong thing for you, we will say so.

One hour at your table. Two weeks to wear it.

Book a private appointment →
The bench Nine a month

One bench, one cutter, nine commissions a month. Ask what is left.

The Vesper Shawl-collar fine-wool tuxedo · Rs. 37,500
Ask a question Book a private appointment →

Twenty-five years at the cutting table. We have dressed diplomats, entrepreneurs and television personalities from across the world.

  • 25yrsOur cutter, at the table
  • 18Measurements, taken once
  • 14daysFrom visit to delivery
  • 1Fitting, at day eight