Tuxedos

What to wear with a tuxedo

With a tuxedo, wear a white formal shirt with a turndown collar and double cuffs, a black self-tie bow tie, a cummerbund if the jacket is single-breasted, black patent or highly polished plain oxfords, and fine black socks. Keep everything else small.

What shirt do you wear with a tuxedo?

A white formal shirt with a turndown collar, double (French) cuffs, and either a pleated or textured bib front with studs, or a plain front with a concealed placket. The wing collar belongs to white tie; with a black-tie tuxedo a turndown collar is the classic choice.

SALVE cuts Soho as the evening shirt for its tuxedos.

Do I have to wear a bow tie with a tuxedo?

Yes, if the invitation says black tie. The black bow tie is the rule, and a long necktie turns a tuxedo into something else. Self-tie is better than pre-tied: it sits more naturally and looks right slightly imperfect. Match its texture to the lapels: satin with satin, grosgrain with grosgrain.

Can I wear a tuxedo without a tie?

At a modern reception or cocktail evening where the dress code is not strict black tie, a tuxedo with a clean evening shirt open at the neck works well. The rule is to lose the tie before you change the silhouette: keep the shirt, the shoes and the fit formal. If the invitation says black tie, wear the bow tie.

Do I need a cummerbund or a waistcoat?

With a single-breasted tuxedo, yes: black tie asks for the waist to be covered, and a cummerbund (pleats facing up) or a low-cut evening waistcoat does it. With a double-breasted tuxedo, no: the jacket is worn closed and the wrap covers the waist.

So The Vesper wants a cummerbund and The Nocturne does not.

What shoes go with a tuxedo?

Black patent leather oxfords, or black calf oxfords polished to a high shine. Velvet slippers or opera pumps are traditional alternatives for the confident. Avoid brogues, loafers with buckles or hardware, and anything brown. The toe should be plain.

What socks go with a tuxedo?

Fine black socks, in silk or fine cotton, long enough that no leg shows when you sit.

Belt or braces with a tuxedo?

Never a belt. Tuxedo trousers have no belt loops. Side adjusters hold them, or braces if you prefer; braces are worn under the jacket and never shown.

What accessories go with a tuxedo?

  • Studs and cufflinks: small and matching, in onyx, mother-of-pearl or plain metal.
  • Pocket square: white linen or silk, folded flat or softly puffed. Nothing that competes with the lapel.
  • Watch: a slim dress watch on a leather strap, or none. A large sports watch fights the shirt cuff.
  • Lapel: nothing, or a single small pin or flower.

What should I avoid with a tuxedo?

  • A long necktie at a black-tie event
  • A belt
  • Coloured or patterned shirts
  • Brown shoes, brogues or buckles
  • Extra shine: the lapels, bow tie and trouser stripe should match, and nothing else should gleam

The whole outfit is decided at a SALVE appointment with the tuxedo, so it does not become a series of separate decisions made in a hurry. See made-to-measure tuxedos in Gurugram.

Questions, answered

Can I wear a black shirt with a tuxedo?

Not for black tie. A white shirt is correct. A black shirt reads as a costume or a club outfit, not evening dress.

Should my bow tie match my lapels?

Match the texture: satin bow tie with satin lapels, grosgrain with grosgrain.

Can I wear loafers with a tuxedo?

Plain black velvet slippers or patent loafers without hardware can work at a relaxed evening. For strict black tie, wear oxfords.

Which way do cummerbund pleats face?

Up. The usual explanation is that they once held theatre tickets.

Do I need a pocket square with a tuxedo?

It is optional. If you wear one, make it white linen or silk and keep it simple.

The pieces

Talk it through at your table.

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