Peak lapel, shawl collar or notch lapel?
Choose a peak lapel or a shawl collar. Both are correct for black tie; a notch lapel is not, because it is a business detail borrowed from the suit.
- Peak lapel: sharp and upright, the points angle up towards the shoulder. It broadens the chest and has more presence in photographs.
- Shawl collar: one continuous rounded line with no break. Softer and more classical, and it tends to flatter a broader chest better than a peak.
The Nocturne has peak lapels. The Vesper has a shawl collar.
Single-breasted or double-breasted?
A single-breasted tuxedo is the classic and the more versatile. A double-breasted tuxedo is the more formal and the more commanding. Both are correct.
- Single-breasted, one button: the jacket can be worn open, and the waist shows, so black tie asks for a cummerbund or a low-cut waistcoat.
- Double-breasted: worn closed all evening. The overlap covers the waist, so no cummerbund or waistcoat is needed. It suits a man who wants the jacket to do all the work.
Black or midnight blue?
Both are correct for black tie. Black is the safer, stricter choice and the one most people picture. Midnight blue is the older convention for evening wear, and under artificial light it reads as a deeper, richer black than black itself, which is exactly where a tuxedo spends its life. In photographs midnight blue also holds detail that black loses.
If you already own a black tuxedo, the second one should be midnight blue.
What about a white or ivory dinner jacket?
An ivory dinner jacket is the warm-weather version of black tie, traditionally for summer and outdoor evening events, worn with black tuxedo trousers. In India it works for a destination wedding by the sea or an outdoor summer reception. It is less at home at a winter wedding in Delhi.
Is a velvet dinner jacket acceptable?
Yes, for the right evening. A velvet dinner jacket in midnight blue, bottle green or burgundy, worn with black tuxedo trousers, is a winter party and host's jacket. It suits a cocktail evening or a sangeet in December better than a formal gala, where the invitation expects a matched tuxedo.
Which cloth is best for a tuxedo in Delhi's climate?
Fine wool is the right cloth for a tuxedo in Delhi NCR. It breathes, it drapes, and it does not shine under flash the way polyester does. Two points about weight:
- November to February, the wedding season, evenings in Delhi can drop below 10°C and a mid-weight wool is comfortable outdoors.
- March to October, choose a lighter-weight wool for indoor, air-conditioned events, and think about an ivory jacket for anything outdoors.
Avoid polyester and heavy blends. They trap heat, crease at the elbows, and show every studio light in the photographs.
SALVE's tuxedos are cut in fine wool and half-canvassed, so the jacket settles to you rather than sitting stiffly.
Satin or grosgrain lapels?
Both are correct. Satin is smooth and has a lustre; grosgrain is ribbed and matt, and is the quieter choice. Whichever you choose, match the bow tie and the trouser stripe to it. SALVE's tuxedos are faced in satin.
Which tuxedo suits my build?
- Broad chest or fuller frame: a shawl collar softens the line.
- Tall or long-waisted: a double-breasted jacket fills the frame well.
- Shorter: a one-button, single-breasted jacket with a peak lapel makes a long, unbroken line and adds height.
- Slim: either works; a peak lapel adds width at the shoulder.
SALVE's tuxedos, side by side
| The Nocturne | The Vesper | |
|---|---|---|
| Front | Double-breasted, six buttons fastening on two | Single-breasted, one button |
| Lapel | Satin peak lapel | Satin shawl collar |
| Colours | Black, midnight blue | Black, midnight blue |
| Cloth | Fine wool, half-canvas | Fine wool, half-canvas |
| Waist covering | Not needed | Cummerbund |
| Choose it for | Presence: host, groom, speaker | The quieter, classical line |
| Price | ₹37,500 | ₹37,500 |
Both are made to measure in Gurugram. See made-to-measure tuxedos in Gurugram.
Questions, answered
Both are correct for black tie. A peak lapel looks sharper and more upright; a shawl collar looks softer and more classical.
Many ready-made ones do, but a notch lapel is a suit detail. For black tie choose a peak lapel or a shawl collar.
Yes. Midnight blue is the older evening convention and is as correct as black. Under artificial light it looks richer than black.
Close, but not tight. The jacket should lie flat without pulling at the button, and the trouser should hang straight. Tight tailoring creases badly when you sit.
No. A double-breasted dinner jacket is worn closed and covers the waist, so it needs no waistcoat and no cummerbund.
